I'm back! But briefly--I need to sleep for a day or two. I am without words--the trip was incredible in all respects. (Well, to be honest, except one--my luggage is missing. The only thing that did not exceed my expectations was El Al. I'm not a fan. They assured me that 98% of lost luggage turns up, and that it will probably be on the next flight to arrive this afternoon. "What happens to the other 2%?" I asked. "Does it fall into the Atlantic?" They didn't laugh.)
[Update: My luggage has been located. It's somewhere between Tel Aviv, where it was held "for security reasons," and NYC. I guess my state of extreme exhaustion made me look dangerous.]
Once I find some new superlatives, and wake up, I'll be able to write some more. One thing I know for certain: before the trip, I had a feeling I wasn't supposed to visit Israel. I was wrong, completely. I was just waiting all my life for the right time.